This late 1800 Victorian house is worth a visit, even if you have never read one of his books. Samuel Clemens, more widely known as Mark Twain, lived in this house for 17 years. His three daughters spent the majority of their lives here and it is reported as the happiest years of their lives.
The Clemens Family
Clemens fell in love with and charmed Olivia (Livy) Langdon into marrying him. At the time, he was a writer of little reputation and a vagabond with not much money to his name. Luckily Olivia came from a wealthy family and was very educated. His father-in-law gifted them their first house and provided most of the money for when they moved to Hartford and built this family home. Luckily Clemens loved his wife and treated her as an equal, knowing her education and cultural knowledge far exceeded his. In fact, Livy was his first editor on all his new works.
The Clemens moved to Hartford from New York since the city was the center of publishing at the time. The house was built in what was known as Nook Farm, a neighborhood that was quite a gathering of literay legends. Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, lived next door, and Noah Webster, the creator of the Webster’s Dictionary, was not far.
The Clemens endured many tragedies. Debt following bad investments that forced them to travel through Europe on a grueling lecture tour for moeny. They also suffered many of the tragedies that were not uncommon for the times and medical progress. Their only son died at two from diphtheria and his oldest daughter died of spinal meningitis while the rest of the family was in Europe. Her untimely death in her twenties caused such sadness that they never returned to the house where they had so much happiness.
Visiting the Clemens House
To tour the house, you must purchase a ticket – either $30 for a tour with their butler George (a guide in character) or $27 for a non-costumed guide. You can take a virtual tour on their website if you aren’t planning to be in the area. There are a lot of stairs to climb as it is a three story house and the museum itself has two floors. My guide was fine though a bit anxious about those of us who lagged behind. Afraid we were touching or taking pictures, I guess.
This is a house that you could see yourself living in as it had many homey touches. I loved all the porches including the one off of Clemen’s favorite room – the third floor billiards room where he wrote his classics Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn. Apparently, this was the “men’s” floor as it housed their guest room for single males and the butler’s room. Often Clemens and his guests would be up all night playing pool and smoking cigars.
When touring, take note of the beautiful wallpapers which really show just how much money Olivia brought to her marriage. I really loved the wallpaper of their bottom floor guest room. A ibeautiful yellow with honey bees and honey combs woven through it created by Candace Wheeler. Wheeler was a woman before her time as she not only designed the papers, but produced them at her self-owned business which employed only other women. Other designers included Tiffany, son of the famed jeweler.
My favorite room, naturally, was the library. This featured a beautiful oak mantelpiece, purchased from a castle in Scotland. I also found it really special that they had a conservatory just outside the room to bring the outdoors inside. And I loved the idea of Clemens sitting in the chair to tell his daughters stories involving all the bric-a-brac on the mantle.
For a man who embodied the folksy American spirit, Clemens lived surrounded by lovely furnishings and a fair sized household staff. While many of the families actual items were sold off when the house was sold, the Museum has been able to purchase back or authenticate donations of some items which were important such as his gorgeous oak carved bed.
The Museum
In the museum, you can visit exhibits on Twain’s life and times. You can learn more about his financial ruin and his writing. While I visited, there was an exhibit on their summer escapes when Twain was often his most prolific. There is also a great 23 minute film narrated by Ken Burns that shows early film of Twain and tells his history.
The Museum Store is one of the best that I have visited with items displaying his many bon mots and a huge array of books, both by him and about him. Many of the house decor is modeled after that found in the house, but you can also find great gift items not related to Twain. There is also a cafe found upstairs with drinks and food items.
Travel is Fatal to Prejudice.
Mark Twain
Next door to the Museum, they are renovating the Harriet Beecher Stowe house which wasn’t open when I visited and building a lovely Visitor Center that will have an outdoor cafe.
When you visit, be sure to check the website for updated times of tours and for any special events. On September 7, 2024, there is a 150 year celebration that looks like fun if you are in the area.
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