Jasper National Park: An Itinerary for Canada’s “Wilder” Park

When we decided to head to Canada to visit their two most well-known National Parks, we wanted to take our time so we could “see it all.” Plus, we wanted to insure we could be flexible if the weather didn’t cooperate with our plans. We allotted two weeks for Jasper and two for Banff. In retrospect, five to seven days is plenty for Jasper (and for Banff, but more on that in another blog).

Banff is probably more famous and certainly more polished, but Jasper feels wilder, more spacious, and noticeably more laid-back. The valleys are broader, the mountains more spacious, and wildlife much more abundant. We saw more animals in a day than we saw in our full two weeks at Banff.

While Jasper is still recovering from the devastating fire (and will be for many years), it is still a gorgeous area. Even the burnt areas offer a fascinating look at nature rebuilding. They also reveal how quickly nature begins again, with wildflowers, birds, and new growth.

Home Base: Miette Campground

Miette Campground is on the far north side of Jasper. This meant it was more peaceful than the busier areas, but also further away. The good news is that it also still had full forest surrounding it. It also meant that we saw a lot of wildlife just off the Highway (so many bighorn sheep!) as we drove back and forth to camp or on the road leading to camp (at least one black bear with her cubs).

Miette is close to the north entrance of the Park which means it is less than an hour from Hinton, a town with a couple of larger groceries and gas stations. Just outside of the Park is another private campground within walking distance of a very good brewery, Folding Mountain. The camp was very nice with full hookups.

If I were staying in Jasper again or had a larger rig (ours at 30 feet just fit in the space and around the loop), I would try to get into Whistler or Wapiti. These are definitely the largest and most convenient campgrounds as they are just off Icefields Parkway. They were also hit hard by the fire so do not expect shade.

There are also several first come, first serve campgrounds but based on our drive throughs, I would only consider those if you are tent camping or have a small total footprint (less than 30 feet). The spaces may be large enough for a 30 foot rig, but those turns were tight when we were just driving through in the pick up.

How Long Should You Spend in Jasper?

For a first visit, we would recommend:

• Three days if this needs to be a quick hit
• Five days would cover all the highlights with some free time
• Seven days gives you a relaxed itinerary with hiking and weather flexibility

Weather, road closures due to wildlife or safety, trail conditions, and your energy levels can all change the day. So pick and choose what appeals to you best and prioritize those sights.

Our DO NOT MISS sights:

Maligne Lake: Our Favorite Sight in Jasper

Maligne Lake was our favorite spot in Jasper. The long turquoise lake, surrounded by mountain peaks, has the kind of dramatic scenery people imagine when they picture the Canadian Rockies. Home to the famous Spirit Island, pictured in nearly all the promotional images of the Park.

Reserve a spot on the Maligne Lake cruise. Unless you are a marathon rower and can canoe to the island, it is the only way to see Spirit Island. You also get a fuller understanding of the scope of the lake. We did the first cruise of the day with a 15 min stop at Spirit Island. The cruise with a 30 minutes stop is more expensive and you don’t need that long to see and take pictures of the island.

Then you can plan your day around the cruise. It is one of Jasper’s best-known destinations. Get there early or go later in the day for ample parking and more peaceful enjoyment! During the main season, there are restaurants and a large gift shop open. We made a reservation at the Maligne Chalet for lunch and it was delicious with great views.

Multiple hikes around and near the lake fit nearly every fitness. A few are even open to bikes. The most popular is the easy path along the lake which can easily be done in an hour or so. We did the hike to Moose Lake which gives you a strong uphill workout but is very doable. Sadly, we didn’t see any moose there but usually folks do. You can also rent kayaks or canoes to paddle yourself.

We arrived for sunrise at the lake and were rewarded with an hour of the lake nearly to ourselves. We saw a large bull moose on the road in and two cows at the lake. Our favorite find was a juvenile bald eagle who was swooping over the lake.

The drive itself is part of the experience. It passes through forest, open areas, and wildlife habitat before reaching the lake, so it should never be treated as a road to rush through. In fact, you will pass Medicine Lake on the way. A spot worth a short stop.

Medicine Lake: Eagles and a Changing Landscape

You are headed to Maligne Lake anyway so plan a stop at Medicine Lake. It is literally on the road there and is often home to loons, minks and other wildlife. Unfortunately, the backside of the lake has a strong area of burnt forest.

At the parking lot, you can go down a short flight of stairs and get closer to the lake. This is a great area to sit and watch the changes of the lake based on weather and light. Bring a picnic and sit a bit further along the shore where you might have it to yourself. Watch for loons and other wildlife, such as a mink swimming across to the rocks.

For us, the highlight and main reason to stop is to see the eagle aerie and if it is the right time of year, the eagles. The best viewpoint is a small pull out, further along the road from the parking lot. There is a small isle where a eagle couple has made a nest. We were lucky to find two fledglings preparing to fly with the adult eagle in a nearby tree.

The Waterfalls

Athabasca Falls

Athabasca Falls is more powerful than tall. Its might is truly something to behold and you can get relatively close. Here, the Athabasca River forces its way through narrow rock channels creating a dramatic series of falls. Depending on the time of year or the weather, this can be a tremendous outpouring and easy to see how it has carved the nearby canyon walls.

From the parking lot, it is a very easy and short walk to the main viewpoints. If you want, you can continue down a flight of stairs to the lower canyon. Though due to the fires, the lowest section was closed while we visited.

Since Athabasca Falls is located on the top end of Icefields Parkway, it is easy to do as part of a fuller drive along this famous road. It is a classic stop and definitely worth seeing, but it was not our favorite waterfall.

Sunwapta Falls

After all our touring, Sunwapta Falls became one of our favorite stops along the Parkway. This waterfall is powerful and also very interesting. Here the river narrows dramatically before plunging into the canyon. This creates a very concentrated flow. Adding to this, an island of trees just above the drop makes the view especially distinctive as the river parts around it.

The upper falls are easy to reach with a slightly steep but very short path. For the quickest path, head to the falls from the far end of the parking lot instead of the main trailhead. You cross a small bridge so you are essentially in the middle of the canyon as the water drop dramatically down to the lower falls. Amazing! Visitors with time and energy can continue along the trail toward the lower falls.

Sunwapta had the best combination of power, scenery, and atmosphere!

The Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway is not simply a road between Jasper and Banff. It is one of the major experiences of the Canadian Rockies. And one of the most beautiful scenic drives of North America with such a variety of landscapes and visuals that it is almost hard to take it all in!

For this reason, we suggest breaking it up and doing half from Jasper, half from Banff. We took it from Jasper to the Columbia Icefield area. Stop along the way at any viewpoints and pullouts that interest. you.

Most are short unless you choose to do a hike at those that allow it such as Valley of the Five Lakes. We elected not to do any of this hike as the burnout was especially concentrated here. In fact, they only recently opened most of it. We also stopped at the Goatlick pullout but sadly did not see any mountain goats there.

If you have time, do them all. You never know what you might see.

As we mentioned, you must stop at the falls discussed above and, of course, the Icefields themselves. Once you get to the Columbia Icefields, you have a few choices:

1. Make a reservation to use the Icefields buses to ride up to the Athabasca Glacier in one of their specially made trucks and get 15 minutes to stand on a glacer. If you buy the combined ticket, you will also be able to visit the Skybridge area. This is a manmade architectural wonder that allows you to walk out above the canyon and stand on glass to see below.
2. Hike up to the tongue of the Glacier from the parking lot across the road from the Center. It is a very doable one mile hike with a steep section at the beginning.
3. Reserve space with one of the ice hike companies stationed in the Center’s parking lot. They equip you with all the necessary safety and foot gear, then lead you on a 5 km hike across the glacier.

We did the first one, but I wish we had done the third. I think that would be more fascinating and my feet would not have gotten wet! The area where you walk with the Icefields truck is very visited and slushy so wear appropriate footwear, you will step in a very cold puddle!

It is totally worth whatever choice you make to get on the Glacier. It is truly a once in lifetime experience and the Glacier is definitely retreating so the experience may not last another generation. That said, for me, the Skybridge was only worth it because we saw mountain goat mamas and babies. The Canyon itself it not that different after all the other pullouts.

RVers Hint: Visiting the Icefields from Jasper is a full day excursion. You can boondock in the Center’s parking lot where they allow overnight parking. As we made our way to Banff with the trailer, we decided to break up our drive and have the experience of waking up to sunrise on the Glacier.

From the Icefields Center, drive a little further south to see two other popular pullouts in this area of the Parkway – Bridal Veil Falls and Weeping Wall. You will easily see both of these while driving by, but we wanted Barry, the driver, to get to see them too so we did the short drive before hooking up the trailer. You will likely see bighorn sheep on that section of the drive.

Jasper Town and the Nearby Lakes

You must visit Jasper, the town. It is very walkable with just two main streets. Definitely visit the cute Friends of Jasper NP visitor center where you can pick up souvenirs and information from the Park Rangers. It is a great idea if you are planning a hike to discover if any trails are closed. We found several closed due to wildlife activity or elk calving.

Jasper has plenty of good restaurants, as well as a great brewery – Jasper Brewing. We also had a great time watching the World Cup games at Malign Range, a distillery and great restaurant. Get there early and sit upstairs on the balcony for great views and people watching. You will definitely find much to buy at one of the many shops and there is a great laundry on Patricia with a coffee shop just above it.

We had a great time visiting the town, walking around, and even biking to a couple nearby sights like Old Fort Point. It feels like a comfortable mountain town that knows it has a treasure to keep with the nearby National Park.

Additional Great Stops

The Lakes

Jasper has many beautiful lakes. They do not have the color of the Banff Lakes, but they have a quieter and more reflective beauty.

Pyramid Lake and Patricia Lake

These two neighbors are great stops in the morning or evening. The reflections of the nearby mountains can be especially beautiful when the wind is calm. There also several easy hikes around them that lead to beautiful wildflowers or new views of the lake.

There is a lodge near Pyramid Lake offering rooms, a restaurant and a bar. In front of the Lodge, there are piers built out onto the lake with seating. It is a great spot to watch sunset with a cocktail or beverage and watch the swallows swooping to catch the bugs above the water.

The Valley of the Five Lakes

These truly look beautiful and do have the blues and greens of glacier lakes. That said, we did not visit them. The hikes are a bit longer to see them and with all the burnout, it was going to be a hot hike. In addition, the day we scheduled to visit was very smoky so views were obscured. Hopefully, next visit!

Horseshoe Lake

We did decide to visit Horseshoe Lake and this was one of my favorite experiences. As mentioned, there is a lot of burnout along this section close to Jasper. However, visiting here is a lesson in the regenerative power of nature.

Blackened trees surround the trail to the lake. Yet, this is allowing the wildflowers to flourish. In addition, the songbirds seem to like this section. It creates a feeling of recovery as you approach the lake.

The lake itself is a rocky cliff and the water is dark green and very peaceful. Sitting on the rocks, it was with a true sense of quiet and calm as you realize that fire is not the end of a place, just another stage in its life.

It helped that we had the place to ourselves but I found it was a place that I wanted to linger and watch as you could almost see nature returning.

Lake Annette and Lake Edith

Both of these lakes are right off the road and are great visits for picnics or a day near water. Near to Jasper Park Lodge, they offer easy hiking paths. At Lake Edith, you can even bike the path for easy shoreline views and spots to stop and just enjoy. Lake Annette is very popular with locals who actually brave getting out on the cold water.

Lac Beavert

With the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge along its shore, this lake has multiple amenities. A lovely trail for hiking or biking encircles it (though a portion may be closed during elk calf season). They offer rentals of canoes and other watercraft to get out on the lake. And of course, you also have access to the Lodge.

Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge

Even if you don’t stay there, you must visit The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. It is a beautiful building sitting prettily along the lake. Stop along the lake and watch the water, listen to the birds and even watch for a glimpse of moose or elk.

Better yet, go inside and have dinner or lunch at one of the restaurants. We did a splurge night for Barry ‘s birthday while there and ate at the Italian restaurant, Orso Trattoria. So very good! Another night, we stopped in to the bar for a drink and enjoyed the large lobby with its comfortable seating and live musician.

Jasper Planetarium

On the grounds of the Park Lodge, you can book an evening with the Jasper Planetarium. With Jasper being a dark sky area, you might be lucky to see amazing stars and even an Aurora. We were sortof lucky, but still enjoyed the evening despite its lateness.

Very enthusiastic astronomers (mostly students studying astrophysics) walked us through a tour of the stars in a small planetarium with a short film. Then they shared several displays of meteor and moon rocks before turning to the telescopes. This experience in June when we visited, starts at 10 p.m. because the sky is just darkening then. So the hope is by the time you get to the scopes, it is dark enough.

Unfortunately cloud cover naturally effect viewing, even with telescopes. But we were pleasantly surprised to know that they will give you a rain check. So we did the inside portion, then returned another night for the outdoor scopes and planned night hike.

Our second night was less cloudy but the smoke from nearby fires were a challenge. We did get a break and were able to do both, plus get a small Aurora show. Honestly, it was only slightly greenish so without the students’ keen eyes, I doubt I would have noticed it.

Definitely schedule the planetarium early in your stay just in case you need the rain check and watch the aurora forecast. They are very generous in allowing reschedules as well.

Check before Visiting

Due to the ongoing recovery from the fire, we were not able to visit these popular sights. They were definitely on our list so be sure to see if they are available when you go.

Mount Edith Cavell: A Distant View

Mount Edith Cavell is normally one of Jasper’s major mountain destinations, but the access road was closed during our visit because of ongoing recovery work after the fire. However, you can’t miss this amazing mountain. She looms over Jasper and is worth watching!

Even from a distance, Mount Edith Cavell was impressive. Its distinct shape and glaciers remain an important part of the Jasper landscape.

Maligne Canyon

Maligne Canyon is usually combined with Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake for a full-day excursion, but a good portion of it was still closed due to debris and restoration from the wildfire. When it reopens, it looks very worthwhile to do the hike and cross the many bridges over the narrow gorge. It would be an easy addon to your day along Maligne Road.

A Flexible Jasper Itinerary

After two weeks in the area, I would say that most people would easily see it in four to five days unless you want to do several major hikes. Here would be my top tips for planning your trip:

1. Jasper Town and Nearby Lakes – Go into town and park at the railroad parking lot, then walk over to the Visitors Center. Touch base there and pick up any maps you want. Then drive up to Pyramid and Patricia Lake. Park at Pyramid Lake and walk across the bridge to the small island. Grab any supplies you need in town and maybe do a slow drive down Highway 16 to Miette Road to watch for wildlife. Maybe book the Planetarium for this early day.
2. Maligne Lake, Medicine Lake, and Maligne Canyon – leave as early as possible and go straight to Maligne Lake. Watch for wildlife along the way and enjoy the peaceful lake before taking an early cruise to Spirit Island. Spend the morning here, then drive out to Medicine Lake. If the Canyon is open, do a small hike or head straigh out to Jasper Park Lodge for dinner or just a wander.
3. Icefield Parkway North – Horseshoe Lake, Athabasca Falls, Sunwapta Falls and any other stops that pique your interest
4. Flex Day – Go back to spots missed, stop and watch for wildlife, drive up as far as possible to Mount Edith Cavell.
5. Drive to Icefields Parkway and plan to spend the night boondocking. Take the last tour of the day or schedule one for early the next day. There is a Starbucks in the center as well as a restaurant and a large souvenir shop.

Additional idea: If you are traveling from the south, stop at the Mount Robson Provincial Park before heading into Jasper. We had no idea and just happened to stop on our way to Jasper. Mount Robson is highest peak in Canadian Rockies. This Park and the surrounding area are worth a full day or more in themselves!

Wildlife in Jasper

Jasper gave us our best wildlife sightings in the Canadian Rockies. It is one of the reasons it feels so different than Banff. The landscape is more open, wider and gives animals rooms to roam.

The highlight was seeing a grizzly mother with her cubs which we spotted at the small airfield off Highway 16. We also saw a black bear and cubs on Miette Road. However, you can’t help but see bighorn sheep along the highway as they seem to graze there. And elk are everywhere too.

Remember stay inside the vehicle when viewing wildlife, especially bears. One thing we learned is that it is important to keep moving in your car as the bears get used to cars and don’t fear them if always stopped. We want to keep them wild!

Binoculars and a long camera lens make sightings safer and more enjoyable. I also got a scope this year which was amazing for watching from a distance, especially the eagles nest. We were in the pullout with the scope when a bus of folks stopped to see the eagles. Many could only sort of see the nest but were not able to see the fledglings until I let them use our scope. They were amazed!

Jasper Is Still Recovering

Remember, Jasper is still recovering from the 2024 fire. One third of the town was lost as well as acres of forest. It will take a while for both to come back. The town is down to two gas stations still and the lines were long. Staying in Miette, we drove to Hinton for gas rather than face those lines and prices. The residents of Jasper would prefer not to discuss the fire. It was and still is emotional for them.

While areas remain burned, roads or trails are closed, and certain views are look very different, it creates a different experience but one so worth having. It is such a great reminder of the power of nature and how important it is for us to take care of it.

Just travel with patience, flexibility, and respect for the community and park staff still working through the recovery.

Final Thoughts

Jasper National Park feels expansive, wild, and unhurried.

It has the glaciers, gorgeous lakes, waterfalls, and dramatic peaks people expect from the Canadian Rockies, but it with a quieter personality. Even the most popular destinations are less polished and less crowded than Banff.

Jasper is beautiful not only because of what has remained, but also because of what is beginning to return.