Banff National Park is truly a wonder! The lakes are an astonishing color, the surrounding mountains are full of gorgeous flora and wildlife, and the town has something for everyone. After a full two weeks there, we saw not only Banff, but also Yoho National Park. These two Parks make up some of the most popular and recognizable scenery in Canada. This is a must visit area, and apparently everyone in the world knows it!
So. Many. People.
Our first piece of advice after visiting in July: if you have another choice, do not go to Banff in July. I have rarely seen so many people in the streets, on the hiking trails, or near the waters. This could be a direct result of the waiving of the National Park fee from mid-June to mid-August for the last two years. However, I suspect it would be crowded even if the National Park fee was in place.
It was still beautiful, but the crowds changed the experience. Parking lots were full and costly, shuttles required advanced reservations, and trails became streams of people.
Would we go back? Absolutely.
Would we choose July? Absolutely not.
Home Base: Lake Louise Campground
We stayed at Lake Louise Hard-sided Campground which is about 50 minutes north of the town of Banff. It offered a more central location for the areas north on the Icefields Parkway, south towards Banff, and west into Yoho National Park. It is also the closest campground to the iconic two lakes of the Park. Though I will admit I was surprised that Lake Louise was still a good 3 miles, uphill from camp. I had visions of biking to the lake that were quickly put to rest when I saw the incline and minimal bike lane.
The campground has level and very long sites. You “buddy” with another rig, but the length allows you to have privacy and not have to share a side. There is 50 amp electric, several nearby bathrooms, a good shower cabin, and one of the best dumps we have encountered – four lanes of dumps.
However, there was one issue. The campground runs parallel to the railroad tracks. It likely wasn’t as bad of an issue for the sites near the beginning of the campground. However, about two spots on either side of our #44, every train began blowing their whistles – two short and one long and then one more short. All through the day. And night.
Also note that if campfires are an important aspect to your experience, then purposefully book a site with a fire ring. Only a few of the sites have fire rings and you cannot have a fire without one. Interestingly, the Park campgrounds provide you with all the firewood you use. There is a forced fee when you book whether you plan to use the fire or not. In Banff, we did not have a fire ring so we didn’t pay the fee. However when we stayed in Jasper, we had to pay despite the fact that we never had a fire and all the wood was damp from rain
The Village of Lake Louise is also close to camp and you can find laundry, a small grocery, and a few restaurants there. It is also where you pick up shuttles for the major attractions.
If you prefer to stay close to town, then try one of the Tunnel Mountain campgrounds. One has full hook ups and all are easy shuttles into town.
How Long Should You Spend in Banff?
We spent two weeks in the area and felt we could have shortened it. For another trip, I would suggest:
- Four days if you just want to hit the iconic sights and see the town
- Five to six days to see all the major destinations, Canmore and do a few hikes
- Up to eight days if you want a more leisurely visit with flexibility for the weather or to just relax and still see it all
Unlike Jasper, Banff requires more planning. One of the most famous destinations requires a shuttle and the other encourage shuttles. If you are not a shuttle type person, you will want to get a very early start. By 9 a.m., the. parking lots are full. Peak season is noted as May 15 to October 12, but the crowds are strongest from late June to mid-August. And off season means snow covered roads and closures!
DO NOT MISS Sights:
Lake Louise: It Really Is That Color
The iconic image of Banff is Lake Louise. This is a place you want to visit just to verify that it is really that beautiful! With the Victoria glacier towering over it and filling it with water, the glacier flour gives it that amazing blue. Add to this mountain setting, the striking Fairmont Chateau and it creates a picture postcard setting.
You can hike or bike up to this lake from Lake Louise Village. It will give you a decent workout! Public shuttles run up here through the day and are less expensive than the parking options. If you are lucky, parking is available either at the lake or the lot about a half mile away. However, the cost is high (to encourage the shuttle no doubt!) at $42CAD from May 15 to October 12.
For this lake, you want to make a plan. Yes, a plan on how to get there but, more importantly, how you want to experience it. You have multiple options from paddling on the water, hanging out near the water or getting a strong workout high above the water.
Hike to the Tea Houses
One of the classic hikes at Lake Louise is the trail to one or both mountain tea houses. First placed there to accommodate hikers in the early 1900s, they have been serving guests for a century. Anyone who hiked this area in the 1900s in those dresses and shoes probably needed tea and a snack! But, it nice to still have the option now. Barry always believes that every hike should end at a brewery, but I really enjoyed this one ending at a teahouse!
This is not a simple stroll. To the first teahouse, the Lake Agnes Tea House, you will travel 2.2 miles and gain 1320 feet of elevation. Honestly it sounds worse than it felt. If you stop along the way to enjoy the views, it is really very doable. The worst part might be the very last section. First you arrive at a lovely waterfall, just below the teahouse. Then you realize you have to climb several flights of stairs to arrive at the actual teahouse. Worse, if you need the restroom, that is further up the mountain and another big set of stairs.
The destination really makes this hike! The actual log tea house is tucked into the mountain and sits besides the small Lake Agnes. The scene is a beautiful alpine setting straight out of Heidi. There is seated and take away service from the teahouse. We sat down and had a lovely breakfast of tea and sandwiches with a few scones. (Note- the pot of tea could easily serve three) The servers are young women, who live up at the Teahouse and make all the baked goods daily, including the famous bread. They work a few days then hike down with the trash for their days off. Then return up to the Teahouse for their next shift.
if you are feeling strong and up for a challenge, you can complete the Teahouse Challenge by hiking on to the Plains of Six Glaciers teahouse higher up the mountain. The hike along the Highline Trail includes a wonderful view of the Beehive and adds about 3 miles with little elevation gain to your hike. It does have several ups and downs though.
Due to their popularity and the summer heat, the earlier you start the better. We arrived at the trailhead around 6:00 a.m. and got to the teahouse before it opened so we were among the first in line. By the time we finished our breakfast, the line was long, and we passed a very large number of people on our way down.
Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise
If you prefer an elevated tea to one at high elevation, the Fairmont Chateau offers you several options. This gorgeous hotel sits lakeside with its restaurants and bars situated for optimum views.
We splurged on afternoon tea at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in their Fairview Room. Seated right by the windows, we had gorgeous views of the lake and Victoria Glacier. It was a big splurge, but so worth it! Each guest gets one pot of tea and a three tiers of goodies. I would not have thought this could have filled us, but we took most of the desserts home.
It was an elegant way to see the hotel and get an interesting contrast to our hike to Lake Agnes! Note: When you book a tea or dinner at the hotel, you are allowed to park in the hotel’s covered lot for free. This wasn’t clear when we made the reservation or called the hotel. But we were relieved that we didn’t have to hike from the lot in our nicer clothes!
Other Options
There are other trails that start at Lake Louise as well as rentals available for getting out on the lake. We even saw a few people taking their own watercraft down to the lake. You just have to complete a self certification card. You can certainly also just enjoy sitting near the water at one of the tables or benches along the way. A small grab and go inside the hotel allows visitors to get food and drink to take outside.
Moraine Lake: Shuttle Required
Moraine Lake is listed as one of the most beautiful places in Canada. It is another iconic image often used to represent Banff. The lake sits below the Valley of the Ten Peaks, creating one of those scenes that almost doesn’t look real—even when you are standing there looking at it.
Of course, the area is gorgeous. First walk up to The Rockpile for the classic view over the lake. Take the short and flat shoreline hike through the trees along the lake for a different view. If you are feeling more adventurous, there are several nearby hikes including one to Consolation Lakes. This relatively short hike takes you to two nearby alpine lakes. Just be sure to carry your bear spray as the bears are known to like this area too!
Lakeside is a lovely patio for the coffee shop which also has snacks and sandwiches. Next door is a fantastic gift shop. The sit down restaurant is reserved for those staying at the lodge.
Personal vehicles are not allowed on Moraine Lake Road, the only road to the Lake, unless you are staying at the Lodge. This means that you must use Parks Canada transit or one of the authorized transportation shuttles. While you can bike or hike up to the lake, it is a fairly steep, 7 mile road. During the winter, snow closes the road to all but cross-country skiers.
This means you need to plan well in advance to get your ideal date and time, especially during the busiest season. We took the 4:00 a.m. shuttle to catch sunrise. I was surprised at how many people were on the shuttle and shocked at the number already at the Rockpile when we arrived in the dark. The rocks were littered with people as we all waited the sun’s arrival. Sadly, it was not a glorious burst of color, but rather a slow, dull awakening of light.
This is where the shuttle system gets problematic. If you want to repeat your visit in order to catch it with a different light or better weather, you must re-book a shuttle. While the public transport is not as expensive, the only way to do sunrise is on a private coach company and the cost was over $100. It does include your return which you must also choose, but we had no issue coming back earlier than our booking.
Johnston Canyon: The Early Bird is the Happiest Bird
Johnston Canyon was one of our favorite hikes in the Canadian Rockies. The hike along the Johnston Creek with it seven or more falls, depending on how you count them, was refreshing and beautiful. The water rushing through the narrow canyon is beautifully clear and the engineering for the series of pathways, bridges and catwalks is amazing.
Along the way, watch for American Dippers bobbing in the water and the Black Swifts, as this is one of the only habitats for these elusive birds. You pass several small waterfalls on your way to the Lower Falls. While you can enjoy this powerful waterfall from the path, take the short bridge across to the small cave. You emerge on a rock outcropping that can only accomodate three or so people. You are mere feet from the waterfall and can feel it’s wonderful spray and hear its noisy power.
We continued on to the Upper Falls which is wider with interesting angles, thus less powerful seeming. However, it makes an interesting bookend to your hike. You can also walk on past these falls to the Ink Pots to further your hike.
This is one spot that you MUST go early. As one of the most popular and doable hikes in Banff, it gets very crowded. Again we arrived early, around 7 a.m., and had no issue parking or walking up the narrow path. On our return, we had to stop frequently to allow hikers coming up to pass on the narrow catwalks and were shocked at the line to get close to Lower Falls. By 9 a.m., it was a steady stream of people that made it seem less a hike and more a parade.
Mistaya Canyon: A Surprising Favorite
Mistaya Canyon became one of my favorite places in Banff. Within a very short hike, you can see a canyon clearly carved by the powerful waters cascading through it. One of the many stops along the Icefields Parkway, it is definitely worth your time whether you have 15 minutes or want to linger.
It is a short trail down to the bridge over the glacial blue waters coming from Peyto Lake. The river has carved dramatic curves and channels through the rock. It is easy to find a spot along the side of the river on the rocks. Sit and listen to the water, watch how it powers through the canyon, and you will understand better how this area was formed so long ago.
This is one spot where it didn’t seem to matter what time you go. You stand a good chance of having it to yourself or sharing with just a few people. And they rarely stay long. After all the crowds, this was a lovely spot to sit and enjoy the view.
Peyto Lake: Beautiful, But a Surprise
Of all the glacial lakes, this might be my favorite, even above Lake Louise. The color is amazing of course. Again the glacier flour has created that unreal blue. However, the real fun is the shape of the lake. It also helped that we arrived very early for sunrise and had it to ourselves for over an hour.
The viewpoint is high above the lake, but the unbelievable blue against the surrounding mountains is breath-taking. Speaking of breath-taking, the hike to the viewpoint is described as an easy, short hike, Yes, it is less than a mile but if you park in the car parking lot, it is a steep climb on a mostly paved path. I think most of the descriptions assume you have taken the shuttle and start your hike at the bus lot. Then is is a very short and relatively flat hike.
However, the buses do not run for sunrise and you might miss out on an incredible experience of having the space to yourself! While it is steep, it is very doable!
There is also a hike to the viewpoint at the Bow Summit Pass. We attempted it, but had to give up. It had been a steady uphill climb and when we looked across the stream that we had to cross, we saw snow and an even steeper hill ahead. Besides the mosquitos were having a field day with our faces and arms!
Favorite Lakes
We just can’t hike everyday and luckily Banff provides plenty of opportunities to sit and enjoy the scenery. With so many lakes and pullouts, you have a chance to really relax and marvel at being among so much beauty.
Herbert Lake
Herbert Lake was a pleasant surprise! Right off the Icefields Parkway, it is secluded and less visited than other stops. We were able to have it to ourselves once and share it with only a few another time. It provides a great spot for birding and watching for wildlife. We have heard it is a favorite for moose and even bear, but we were not as lucky to see either.
Go here with your binoculars and chair. Sit and just relax with a book or drawing paper. Watch the light as it changes the mountain above and keep an eye out for wildlife!
Waterfowl Lakes
Waterfowl Lakes was another place to slow down. There is a lovely campground there if your rig is smaller and you don’t need any hookups. There are two lakes connected by a river and several good hikes beyond the lakes to other smaller lakes. Within a very short walk of the camp, you can sit at the one lake to watch a beautiful sunrise and possible wildlife. The other offers a chance to get out on the water and more wildlife viewing. The best we saw were loons and an osprey, but much more has been found there.
This is a great spot for binoculars, a picnic or a book. Just bring along chairs and enjoy the quiet, peaceful area.
Side Trip to Yoho National Park
You can easily add another National Park to your total with a day trip to the neighboring Yoho National Park. This is a smaller park with a few amazing sights and lots of character, especially in the small town of Field. This is another spot where parking can be limited especially at Emerald Lakes so plan accordingly.
Emerald Lake
Another of the must see glacier lakes – Emerald Lake lives up to the name. Greener than blue, it is a gorgeous lake totally surrounded with mountains and the lodge as well as a great cafe and gift shop. Perhaps it is due to being removed from Banff, but it has a more relaxed atmosphere with more people at play than sight-seeing.
You can walk the shoreline or rent a watercraft like a canoe. The rental prices are steep but I imagine the views would be amazing on the water. We took a walk up to the impressive lodge to see the lobby and grab a drink at the beautiful wood bar. It was a steep but short walk up and totally worth it despite the bar not having any view.
Takakkaw Falls
Takakkaw Falls was naturally on our list as waterfalls attract my photographer husband. And this one was amazing! I am not sure we have ever seen such a powerful spout of water. It streams forcefully down the high cliff in a free fall.
The falls are best viewed from the picnic area near the parking. An easy hike takes you closer, but the impact would be lessened. It would give you incredible scale but you might miss some of the power.
Natural Bridge
Another quick stop is the Natural Bridge. An excellent example of the power of water to breakdown rocks and create pathways, this area gives you a great opportunity to get close and put your feet in glacier water.
The cute town of Field
We almost didn’t stop in Field. After a quick drive through the town which proved that the houses were adorable and had lovely gardens, we were going to return to Banff. However, we decided to go to the Truffle Pig, an old-fashioned lodge and bar that was highly recommended. There we met Lloyd, an older resident of Field who stops by the bar often to meet friends and make new ones. He was a delight as we learned he come forty years ago for a vacation and never left.
Leaving Lloyd to continue to entertain those at the bar, we walked back to the Velvet Antler Pottery where our car was parked. This small pottery shop is run by a husband and wife who make all the merchandise with their daughter. Applying chemistry to their craft, they have created beautiful pieces in colors I rarely have seen in pottery. We, of course, had to buy a bowl!
Bow Valley Parkway
Instead of always taking the quickest way on the highway, take Bow Valley Parkway. This scenic parkway was the original road between Banff and Lake Louise. It invites you to slow down and stop along the way to discover views and wildlife. Morant’s Curve is an iconic image, especially when the train comes through. Another great stop is Backswamp Viewpoint where you can nearly always see osprey, loons and other birds. If you are lucky, you might see moose.
Along the drive you will pass Sawback Burn, a prescribed burn. With its less dense forest, this is a great spot to watch for bear and other wildlife.
Lengthen your drive by adding the Lake Minnewanka Loop where you get views of two Lakes and can stop at Lower Bankhead to stretch your legs. A former mining operation and town, this historical stop offers you an interesting hike amid a beautiful field. And if you are as lucky as we were, a small band of bachelor elks grazing and resting. The short hike takes you past the remains of the mining operation with signage to explain what you are seeing.
Banff, The Town
Of course, you must go to the town of Banff. When workers of the Canadian Pacific Railroad discovered the hot springs, Banff started drawing visitors who wanted to take the waters for health. The surrounding beauty soon grew as a bigger draw and now more than 4 million people from around the world visit this small mountain town. And it is still a relatively small town as it is part of the National Park, thus heavily regulated. That has not stopped its commercial growth with many good restaurants, local shops, and big name brand stores.
The only other time we visited Banff was in November to ski. We didn’t do much sightseeing outside the town and it was much easier to navigate with smaller crowds. During summer months, the normal population of 8000 residents can swell to 43,000. It makes for some tough parking issues! There is free parking near the railroad station which is a fairly quick walk to the main part of town. There you can catch a bus to the further areas or just walk. Most everything is within a mile. We did see people on bikes riding down the main streets and around the golf course, but I am more timid than to ride among all the cars and elk.
As part of the Pursuit Pass, you can take an open top car tour of Banff or go up on the Banff Gondola for a birds’ eye view. The Banff Gondola has a boardwalk hike that is an informative walk. Several restaurants and gift shops await you at the top so plan to spend some time up there if you go. I am glad we checked it out but do not feel we need to go back up there.
I recommend instead that you can drive up the Mount Norquay and take that gondola or check out the free viewpoint from the road. You also have a good chance to see bighorn sheep along the way.
Canmore
This is definitely worth a day or more. It is a cute town with a pedestrian street filled with galleries and local shops. There are several good restaurants including The Grizzly Paw, a good brewpub with two locations. The larger has a great view of the Three Sisters Mountains.
Other Stops
Other Lakes
When these ar easy to add to your itinerary, then definitely stop but if your time is limited, these are easily passed.
Bow Lake
Bow Lake Lodge has a great history and the surrounding area is lovely. We stopped as it is very popular, but we found other spots were more beautiful. It, of course, has the beautiful mountain scenery and is a very large lake. You can easily stop at the viewpoint or even see it from Icefields Parkway. If you want to drive down closer, you can do a lakeside hike or stop at the historic lodge for a bite.
Two Jack Lakes and Lake Minnewanka
As part of the Bow Parkway Loop, you can easily see these lakes. Two Jacks is popular for picnics and waterplay. There is a small island that you can walk over to (through the water) and several vantage points for enjoying the view. This is a popular lake for photographers as Mount Rundle towers above and on a calm day, is often reflected on the lake.
Lake Minnewanka is a reservoir and offers boat cruises. It has several pullouts to get good views of it and hikes that looked interesting but were closed due to wildlife.
A Flexible Banff Itinerary
The Banff area offers a lot for all kinds of travelers including great hikes, scenic drives and beautiful views. Decide what is important to you and plan your itinerary accordingly. Just remember to make reservations and plans for the most trafficked areas.
Day One: Lake Louise
Choose one day to focus on Lake Louise. Make reservations for tea or a meal. Or go early and hike, then canoe on the lake if you still have energy.
If you decide to eat or take tea at the Fairmont, take your time to explore the hotel and all its many shops. If you decide to do the hikes, you will be done early and have the afternoon to recover! Or go home and clean up, then return for an afternoon tea!
Day Two: Moraine Lake
Depending on what transportation reservation you make, you can create a day for Moraine Lake. You could even do both Lake Louise and Moraine lake in the same day if you are just making quick stops. At Moraine, When you arrive, walk up to the Rockpile for the beautiful view. Then hike along the lakeshore or take one of the canoes out on the lake. If you feel adventurous, take one of the hikes to Consolation Lakes or along the Larch Valley Trail. This one is particularly beautiful in the fall.
That afternoon, if you don’t do a long hike, then drive Icefields Parkway going north. Along the way, stop at one these pullouts. You might even have time for the hike to Peyto Lake or to take a shuttle up to the bus entrance.
- Mistaya Canyon
- Herbert Lake
- Bow Lake
- Waterfowl Lakes
Day Three: Johnston Canyon, Banff and Bow Valley
Get up early and hike Johnston Canyon before the crowds. Then head into Banff for a late breakfast or early lunch. We love the Wild Flour Bakery for its delicious eats and good cafe drinks. It is also in the middle of town with great shops surrounding it. Make sure to stop at the Jolene’s tea shop for great teas and adorable merch.
Spend your afternoon exploring Banff on foot or with a tour. If you use Guide Along tours, he has a good city tour of Banff for a self-guided tour. Plan to have dinner or a drink at our favorite restaurant, Park Distillery or if you like sushi, Hello Sunshine. Also check the schedule as there is a good market in Banff once a week during the summer in the Central Park.
As you leave Banff, drive over to Two Jack Lakes and Lake Minnewanka. If the lake is calm, look for reflections of Mount Rundle. Then drive a bit further and slow down as you drive the Bow Valley Parkway. Keep an eye out for wildlife including bears and elk.
Day Four: Yoho National Park
It is a short drive to Yoho from the Banff area. Go early if you want a good parking space at Emerald Lake. Otherwise, you might have a good hike to get to the lake. You can plan to lunch there at the Cafe or if you go early enough, leave there to lunch in Field.
While in Yoho, plan a stop at the Natural Bridge and Takakkaw Falls. Another fascinating stop is along the highway at the Spiral Tunnels pull off. This engineering feat allowed them to build longer tracks for this very steep grade to allow trains to pass through safely. Make sure to stop at the Visitors’ Center in Field to get a great visual that better explains this marvel.
Day Five:
Drive over to Canmore and walk its pedestrian street, stopping in the galleries to admire the amazing art and photographs of the places you have seen. On your way back, stop in Banff for any last minute souvenirs or drive over to the Fairmont Banff Springs. This castle built by the railroad has a rich history and gorgeous views.
Helpful Hints
As I have mentioned, try not to visit in July. That is our biggest advice. Not only are the crowds immense but the mosquitos are as well. If you can only visit in July, I would still do it, just be prepared.
- Make reservations in advance. I made ours several weeks in advance and when I tried to make changes one week before, I ran into issues with space.
- Check if a National Park Pass is necessary. When we visited Banff in November to ski, we had to purchase a Park Pass since our hotel and the ski mountains were within the Park.
- Take mosquito spray, mosquito bracelets, mosquito hats, whatever you need to avoid those little pests! They were vicious and numerous.
- Be an early riser. I am not a natural morning person, but for the Canadian Rockies, I became better. It made a huge difference in our enjoyment being on the trail by 7 a.m. or seeing sunrise at one of the lakes.
- Don’t forget the bear spray. Carry it with you, even in the campground. A black bear was sited just two or three sites down from our camper one morning on my way to the washroom (what Canadians call the restroom).
Final Thoughts
Banff is undeniably beautiful. I have never seen a lake that color, let alone several. I was surprised by what came to mean the most to me on our trip. The hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House made Lake Louise more than a photo stop and it made me proud of myself for doing it. I loved the Lower Falls of Johnston Canyon.
It was also the quieter moments that meant a lot. Sitting to draw at Mistaya Canyon with only a handful of people around. Walking to Lower Bankhead and seeing elk stags with their velvet antlers. Meeting our new friend Lloyd at the Field bar and listening to him tell us about this unique place.
These are the moments that you have to make and slow down to enjoy. What have been your favorite moments on trips to Banff or somewhere like it?
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