Waterton Lakes National Park: A Few Days in Canada’s Little Mountain Park

I have been curious about Waterton Lakes National Park since we visited Glacier National Park. As the other part of the International Peace Park, Waterton offers a peaceful and unhurried pace – just right after the crowded Banff National Park. Once you set up camp, you will find town within walking distance and the major attractions within a short drive.

Waterton shares its mountain range with Glacier and even offers a hike where you can be in both Parks in one day. Its mountains feel close enough to touch and the town an easy area to visit and enjoy. It offers a different view of the area and a good contrast to its more well-known northern cousins. Not only is its pace slower than super busy Banff, but its recovery from a 2017 wildfire offers a positive hope for Jasper as it comes back from its 2024 fire.

First Things First: Camping at Waterton Townsite

We stayed at Waterton Townsite Campground, which is truly the best option. Within walking distance of town and several attractions, it is very convenient. Plus, unusual for a National Park campground, it is full hook-ups! That was a blessing after four weeks with barely any amenities.

The Campground is so close to town that Barry was able to ride his bike back and forth between laundry cycles. This small town makes it easy to get around and to see it in a few hours. In addition, the beautiful Cameron Falls and Waterton Lake is within a short walk.

This smaller size also means that you will want to get groceries prior to coming to town. While you can get a few items at the local market, you would not want to get your week’s full of groceries there. There are plenty of restaurants to keep you fed for several days, but it is always nice to relax at home with lunch and dinner.

Cameron Falls: The Easiest Waterfall Stop Ever

With barely any effort, you can walk or bike to Cameron Falls. It sits right at the edge of town, just outside the campground. This might be the easist waterfall stop we have ever made! This does make it one of the only spots where we saw crowds but the area easily handles them.

You can hike up to the top or just enjoy the base area. It is large with a few benches and a great stop on a warm day. The temperature around the Falls was a noticeable few degrees cooler. If you can, go to see them in the softer morning or evening light, but even if you only have twenty minutes, they are worth seeing.

Red Rock Parkway: Start Here

We started our first touring day on Red Rock Parkway, an excellent introduction to the park. I do reccommend doing this early in the day if you are there during the summer as it got fairly hot by the time we made it to the Canyon. However, the drive and short hike were well worth it!

One of the things that makes Waterton so interesting is the way the landscape changes. The mountains don’t gradually build in the distance. They seem to rise almost abruptly from the prairie, and the drive toward Red Rock Canyon gives you plenty of chances to appreciate that transition. You will want to stop along the way and enjoy the changes as well as keep an eye out for wildlife.

At the end of the drive, you will park at Red Rock Canyon where you can do a short paved loop around a part of the canyon. Some folks were even going down onto the rocks near the water. This is one of those canyons that amaze with its color and the fact that you know water had slowly over time created it. The canyon is filled with brillant red and green rocks, a truly unexpected color in this alpine landscape.

Hike to Blakiston Falls

While at Red Rock Canyon area, if you have 45 more minutes, take the trail up to Blakiston Falls. It is an easy hike that makes you feel like you have gotten some exercise but. not exhausted yourself. Plus there is a pay-off at the end which is always welcome!

It was also a fascinating hike as the trail winds through an area that was part of the wildfire several years ago. It was heartening to see how the forest was returning as trees grew back and the wildflowers blossomed. After viewing so much devastation from wildfires on our travels, it gave us hope to see nature returning to her former glory.

At the Blakiston Falls, are a series of viewing platforms for different perspectives. I know I am biased – traveling with a photographer obsessed with waterfalls, causes this – but I felt the platforms took away from the natural beauty. I see the reason for them and appreciate the Park trying to make it safer to enjoy, though. The highlight for me on this hike was the mountain behind us. We caught sight of a golden eage and of several mountain goats that we watched traipse their way up the ridge of the mountain. Points to me for bringing along my binoculars on my hikes. I am learning it often pays off!

Our advice – Do the Red Rock Parkway, Red Rock Canyon and Blakiston Falls together rather than treating them as separate destinations. It makes an easy half-day outing and still leaves time to return to camp for lunch and a rest before heading back out.

Akamina Parkway: A Different Side of Waterton

If Red Rock Parkway shows off Waterton’s prairie-to-mountain transition, the Akamina Parkway gives you a more forested experience. The road climbs away from the townsite toward Cameron Lake, with trailheads along the way. This is an area still working its way back from the fire, but still offering beauty. The trails looked harder than I was ready to tackle, but I understand there are several good options for all levels.

At the end of the road, Cameron Lake sits in a narrow mountain basin. From the dock, you can see mountains that are actually in Glacier National Park. There are canoe rentals if you want to get out on the Lake and a nice easy trail along the shoreline with plenty of birdwatching opportunities. Just be sure to bring mosquito spray as they were HUNGRY!

This is also a great spot for a picnic or to just sit near the water. A spot to just soak up the beauty of lakes, mountains, and a lot of birds.

The Bison Paddock

Bison once roamed North America in vast numbers. When Europeans began settling here, they drove that population almost to zero in a very short time. Since then, many entities have worked to bring them back and to give them safe places to roam. Waterton has its own area where they are bringing back bison –Bison Paddock This habitat area really gives you a sense of prairie with its rolling hills set against a background of mountains in the distance.

You actually exit the National Park to get to the Paddock which sits in the more open prairie. After a short drive down a almost unmarked road, you will enter an loop road that allows you to drive through the Paddock. It is very bumpy, but somewhat maintained. When we visited, we didn’t see the bison until we were nearly done the loop. They were handing out at the small lake in the middle of the area.

Definitely bring binoculars to this area to get a good view of them. Signs remind you to stay in your car.

While on this side of the Park, head over to Maskinonge Lake (mosquito spray required!) to see a beautiful water habitat. This is especially beautiful at sunset as the birds settle in and fly in the pink sky. We saw several trumpet swans, a heron, loon and many other beautiful small birds.

Prince of Wales Hotel: Go for the View or a Drink

Prince of Wales Hotel was one of the many hotels the railroad built to accommodate tourists to the area. While built in time for a visit by Prince Edward in 1927, but he didn’t visit. However you should not snub it as well. It is a beautiful building with an impressive lobby and more importantly, a fantastic view of the Waterton Lake.

Perched dramatically above Upper Waterton Lake, this is likely the most famous landmark in the Park, portrayed on nearly all the postcards. It is worth the trip to catch the view and walk through the large gift shop. If you enjoy English products like shortbread, it is definitely worth the stop!

I have heard that Afternoon Tea is a great way to enjoy the hotel and for a fairly reasonable price. We stopped for a cocktail, which we enjoyed sitting in the lobby watching the panoramic view over the lake and townsite as the sun set.

Unfortunately,Waterton was getting a lot of smoke when we visited so our views of the lake and its surrounding mountains was often obscured. It was truly shocking as there were times, we could not even see the farther mountains. However, we still found it lovely.

Waterton Lakes

Throughout the down, there is a wonderful walking or biking path that allows you to easily enjoy the shoreline. One night, we sat by the shore at the top of the path looking towards Prince of Wales Hotel in hopes of catching the Aurora Lights. Sadly they were not to be, but it was still a tranquil, lovely way to enjoy the lake and all the stars!

While we didn’t get on the lake, you have several options for enjoying Upper Waterton Lake. The easiest is the scenic cruise which takes you all the way to the US. If you are planning to do the International Peace Park Hike, you can take this boat to or from the Goat Haunt trailhead to cut the hike in half. However, don’t forget your passport. If you just are cruising, no passport required.

If you prefer something more active, paddleboards and canoes can also be rented. You are not allowed to bring your own watercraft on the Lake, however. Just watch the weather as a day that seems very calm can suddenly turn very windy. This area is famous for its winds.

Other Points of Interest

• Bear’s Hump One of the most famous hikes in Waterton is Bear’s Hump. You will want to do this one early to escape the heat and the crowds as it is one of the most popular. You are hiking up to a viewpoint towards the Hotel and Lake. It is said to be gorgous – on a clear day. Sadly, we didn’t have one of those!
• Wildflowers – Waterton is known as the wildflower Park so if your timing is right, you can enjoy beautifully colored flowers. Ironically, a wildfire can actually create better conditions for flowers.
• Visitors Center – This was a beautiful buidling with really friendly staff and fascinating exhibits. Well worth the stop
• Wieners of Waterton – A famous and pretty tasty hot dog or brat spot. They even have a veggie option.
• Relaxation – This is one Park where you can casually walk along the water, stop and rest in one of the famous red chairs, and just daydream!

Recommendations

If you’re planning your own Waterton stay, these would be on our list:

• Stay in Waterton townsite if you can. Being able to walk around town changes the experience.
• Build downtime into your schedule. Waterton is small enough that you don’t need to cram every day.
• Do your major grocery shopping before entering the park.
• Leave room for wildlife. This is one of those parks where an unplanned wildlife sighting may become more memorable than whatever was next on your itinerary.
• Pack mosquito spray – this is likely only at certain times of year, but July was definitely one of those times!

Easy Waterton Itinerary

Certainly take as long as you want in this pretty spot, but you can easily do it in three or so days. Here is a simple itinerary.

Day 1: Red Rock Canyon, Blakiston Falls and the Townsite

Begin with the Bear’s Hump. Then head out to Bison Paddock and enjoy the lake views.

Then you can drive the Akamina Parkway in the morning and head to Cameron Lake, for a hike, canoe ride or easy picnic lunch.

Finish the day at the Prince of Wales Hotel for a cocktail and a different view of the Lake.

Day 2: Akamina Parkway and Cameron Lake

Start with the Red Rock Parkway, taking your time at the overlooks and watching for wildlife along the way. Do the short loop around Red Rock Canyon, then continue on to Blakiston Falls.

Return to the townsite in the afternoon for wandering, shopping, reading by the lake or simply relaxing at camp.

If you want something a little special, consider afternoon tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel.

Day 3: Bison, the Lake and Whatever You Missed

Afterward, head back to the campground for lunch and enjoy some relaxation time. Then take a short walk or drive over to Cameron Falls. Afterwards, head to town to wander the shops and get an ice cream or hot dog.

For the afternoon, catch anything you. missed or take another hike.

Final Thoughts

Part of the charm of Waterton Lakes is the ease and relaxing pace. This is a wonderful area to make the day your own.