Your Best Trip to Savannah

During our first year on the road, we traveled to Savannah to scout it for a BentonDowns photography workshop, but quickly fell in love with this lovely city. Known for its beauty, the architecture and variety of subjects make it a photographer’s destination. It also makes it a destination for anyone who loves history, gardening, literature, food, or ghosts! This city truly has something for everyone!

First Impressions

You will first notice the beauty and the lush vegetation. Resurrection ferns hang from the many trees, squares are full of greenery and flowers. History will unveil itself to you as you notice the statues and memorials as well as the historical markers and dates signifying when a building was erected. And, as you wander through this incredibly walkable city, you will stop in restaurants and shops to learn the people of Savannah are true “southerners” with their lovely hospitality, pretty drawl, and sweet tea. This is after all, the Hostess City.

A Little History

Savannah was established in 1732 by General James Oglethorpe, who brought 120 passengers from England to establish Georgia and named it after King George. Savannah was established as a buffer against the encroaching Spanish pushing north from Florida. With its place on the water, Savannah continued to be a strategic position through the American Revolution, War of 1812 and Civil War. And reminders of this long history can be found throughout the city.

In the 1950s, a group of women realized that many of the historic buildings were being considered for the wrecking ball and banded together to save the beautiful architecture, the foundation of Savannah’s charm. This Historic District is now one of the largest in the US. I really appreciated not only the restoration, but how Savannah also honors its past. Nearly every square has a statue or a plaque honoring a significant person in its history from General Oglethorpe to Juliet Gordon Low to the Chasseurs-Volontaires de Saint-Domingue, an all-black regiment from Haiti, who fought for American independence. And they have placed historical markers that explain the square or other historical moments from Savannah’s past.

The City Plan

Thanks to General Oglethorpe, Savannah has its distinctive layout. Oglethorpe sat with pencil and ruler to create a grid of squares connected by parallel and perpendicular streets. You can easily find your way around the area and create a route so that you never retrace your steps. The squares were originally planned as “wards.” This allowed residents to live in residences close to the green-filled square and have their commercial and civic buildings surrounding the homes. Even now, as you wander the streets, you see a mix of homes and shops interspersed among the 22 remaining squares, creating a lovely small town feel to this large city.

So, let’s plan your trip to Savannah! These tips will help you make the most of your time:

When to Go

Spring is the best time, especially for gardeners and those that like festivals. Go in early March to catch the azaleas in bloom, but the subtropical climate means you can always find something blooming and lush greenery. It just takes a little rain for the resurrection ferns to transform a tree and the humidity is perfect for tropical flowers and palms.

Temperatures and humidity start to climb in May. By July and August, things are steamy and hot. Many Savannahans told us that this is when they choose to take vacations to the beach and shorten shop hours.

If you love a party, you might consider visiting mid-March as the city hosts one of the largest St. Patrick’s Day parades in the country. Irish settlers to this area in times of General Oglethorpe have had an impact including this favorite celebration!

For those who like things spooky, this might be the perfect city to visit in October. Known for its hauntings, Savannah will offer you great options to celebrate Halloween! There are a range of haunted tours including the Sorrel-Weed House and many residents are happy to share with you their own personal ghost story. Of course, one of the biggest attractions in the area is the Bonaventure Cemetery, dating back to 1846. Many of Savannah’s famous and infamous are buried here. Be sure to pick up the map or download the app to help guide you around this beautifully haunting site.

Do consider that Savannah can be impacted by hurricanes and winters are relatively mild with temperatures in 60s. If you don’t like crowds and if you dress in layers, this might be a good time of year to visit.

Getting Around

It is very simple to walk Savannah and see the Historic District as well as a few of the important sites outside the District. You will need a car to get out to Bonaventure Cemetery and a few other sites or you can purchase a tour that hits on your favorite spots. The trolley tours looked fun and at least one included “historical” figures such as Gen. James Oglethorpe and Forrest Gump coming aboard to discuss their part of history. For folks with limited time or who want a good overview, this is an excellent first option.

If you have time to walk or will be visiting over several days, we recommend a booklet called The Savannah Walking Tour and Guidebook and an app called GPSmyCity. Both of these give fun details and guide you around the Historic District. For us, this is simpler, cost much less and there is no waiting for a trolley. 

Parallel parking is available on the street with most spots metered during the weekdays. I was able to find a few free spots a street away from Forsyth Park, but didn’t find it difficult to use a parking app to keep my meter fed. There are also several garages surrounding the historic district.

Must See Places

There is much to see, eat and do in Savannah. If you have only a day, these are the top spots where we would direct you. For those planning a longer trip, we suggest taking it square by square and exploring this impressive city. Start at the River and work your way to Forsyth Park or vice versa. Plus add a few side trips to Telfair Museum, where you can see the famous Bird Girl Statue from the cover of the book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, or the Savannah Historic Museum, home of the where Forest Gump sat with his box of chocolates.

Forsyth Park 

This is a great starting point for your day as the squares now lay between the Park and the River at the north end of the Historic District. Established in 1840s, this city park grew to thirty acres set at what was the southern edge of Savannah. As the city has grown, the park is now more central, marking the end of the historic district. The park is well worth a visit to see the beautiful central fountain erected in 1858. Weddings can often be seen taking place in front of this amazing water display.

The park includes a large green space where dogs roam freely, an amphitheater for performances and spaces reserved for festivals, sports, and other activities. It also has a scent garden for those who are visually impaired. Check the calendar for the Saturday morning Farmer Market , movies in the Park and other events taking place.

Make sure to walk along the west side of the park to see several beautiful former residences, now turned into B&Bs. These lovely homes with decorative iron fences and beautiful gardens remind you of how life at the turn of the last century!

Madison Square

You will want to visit every one of the 22 squares laid out by General Oglethorpe, but definitely sit a while in Madison Square (named for our fourth President) to enjoy the greenery and surrounding architecture. With the Old Sorrel-Weed House on one corner and the Savannah College of Arts and Design (SCAD) on another, you get a view of the old and new Savannah. The statue in the middle honors William Jasper, a Revolutionary War Hero, and the square features large beautiful trees, greenery and benches to rest for a few minutes in your day.

Stop in the SCAD shop, featuring art from the teachers and students of the college. Then take a peek inside the Gryphon Tea Room or better yet, stop and have tea (or many other options). Set in a 1926 Scottish Rite architecture, this lovely restaurant feels old world with white linen table cloths and cozy seating set among beautiful carved mahogany bookcases and original stained-glass panels. Walk down Harris Street to see our next two must sees…

E Shaver Booksellers and Savannah Tea Shop 

Originally built in 1842 as the personal residence of Eliza Jewett, a real estate developer who constructed many homes on Jones Street, the quintessential Savannah residential street. In 1975 a couple, Ed and Esther Shaver, who came to Savannah on their honeymoon and fell in love with the city, bought it to create the E. Shaver Booksellers store. This store is a treasure trove of books, book items and local information. We bought our Savannah Walking Tour and Guidebook here as well as a book about author Flannery O’Connor, who lived not far from this amazing bookstore, in Layfayette Square.

Inside the store is the Savannah Tea Room. With a wide variety of flavors and a tea expert, you are sure to find a tea flavor that refreshes you for browsing the bookstore or walking around the city.

St. John the Baptist Cathedral 

This beautiful church was built in 1850s and rebuilt after a devastating fire in the 1900s. Be sure to visit and look at the amazing stained glass windows from Austria. You can take a self guided tour or look for a docent led tour. Check the calendar to see what time the church is open for tours as it will be closed to public during masses or congregational events. Also if there is a planned concert or playing of the organ, be sure to plan to visit. It is well worth the effort to sit in this peaceful place and listen.

Note: Mirabelle’s, across the street, is a great place to stop in for a quick bite or drink. While we did not try the aromatic Belgian waffles, their tea and muffin gave us a great pick up (almost as much as the bathroom break.)

First African Baptist Church

This historic building was the first black church in the country. It served as an important safe house for slaves and African Americans throughout history including as a stop on the Underground Railroad. Notice the holes in the floorboards used for ventilation for the hidden slaves.

Bonaventure Cemetery

The final resting place for Johnny Mercer, who wrote Moon River, and many other influential Savannahans, this cemetery was featured in the book and movie, Midnight at the Garden of Good and Evil which is based on a true story. Well worth the additional drive time to get there, Bonaventure does close early, usually by 4 p.m. Filled with statues and atmosphere, this cemetery gives you a rich insight into the history of Savannah. For photographers, it is a great space to capture small features and the play of light through the many trees.

Other Key Restored Buildings

• The Pirates’ House (1734), this inn is mentioned in Robert Louis Stevenson’s book “Treasure Island,” and is the oldest structure in Georgia
• The Olde Pink House (1789), site of Georgia’s first bank and now an elegant restaurant – be sure to make reservations!
• The birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low (completed in 1821) now owned and operated by the Girl Scouts of the U.S.A. as a memorial to their founder
• The Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences, built in 1812 as a mansion, was one of the South’s first public museums
• The Lutheran Church of the Ascension (1741)
• The Independent Presbyterian Church (1890)
• Savannah’s Temple Mickeve Israel is the third oldest synagogue

Where to Eat

Savannah is home to many great restaurants, a true food haven. Nearly everything we ate was delicious. Where possible, we recommend reservations. While River Road is very popular and has many restaurants on it, we did not find many to love there so suggest you visit the candy and honey shop, but eat up in city (up because you must go down stairs to get to River Road).

We also recommend striking up conversations with your neighbors or those waiting for seating. The Savannah people are warm and love to share their city insights. Take advantage! Here are a few of our favorites but there are so many more to try!

• Collins Quarter – by far our favorite, they have amazing cocktails and food. Well-known for their brunch, which was not only delicious but beautiful, we also had an amazing dinner. While you are waiting, wander over to the square or around the corner to the nearby shops.
• Public Kitchen and Bar was a delicious stop for drinks and food. Just off Liberty, we seemed to pass it often on our way to favorite sections of town. Very convenient with outdoor seating, we recommend the fabulous shrimp and grits.
• Garibaldi’s is an Italian restaurant near City Market area with beautifully romantic interior and delicious food.
• Olde Pink House is an established and elegant restaurant in a former home. Well-worth the splurge.
• Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is likely the most well-known restaurant in Savannah. Originally a boarding house, it continues the tradition of communal tables with family style meals. It does not take reservations and is only open for lunch so people line up before it opens to get in to sit at the bench tables. We did not eat there but if you like history and tradition, it could be a great place for you.

Dessert

Treats in Savannah deserve their own category so here are some don’t miss places for your sweet tooth.

• Chocolate by Adam Turoni – This artisan chocolatier has two shops in Savannah and both are worth a visit just for the artistic display. But don’t stop there, make sure to get a few delicious treats and try not to eat them right away. They are as tasty as they are beautiful.
• Leopold’s is another Savannah tradition with a long. This ice cream institution is the birthplace of Tutti Fruitti flavor and has a wide assortment of flavors to tempt you.
• River Street Treats/Savannah’s Candy Store – Make sure to stop in as you tour River Road and get your free praline as you enter. Then revert back to childhood and literally be a kid in a candy shop as you find all your old and current favorites.

Quick hints

• Walk the historic cobblestones of River Street and see this important part of Savannah’s past when cotton was king and African families were torn apart. Stop in the Savannah Bee Company where you find honey flavors of all kinds and a mead tasting area.
• Make sure to check the event calendar for festivals or fun events. On one trip, I attended the Hidden Gardens Tour hosted by the Garden Club of Savannah and got to go into several private and amazing gardens.
• Get out of the city to see Tybee Island and enjoy some beach time.
• Hilton Head is not far from Savannah and a great side trip as well. You can find beaches here as well, but there are a bit more hidden behind the hotels. However, it is a great spot to shop, walk along the marina and see beautiful landscaping. You might consider finding a campground and adding a few days on either side of your Savannah visit.
• Read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil before visiting to get in the mood. Or watch Forest Gump and see if you can name that square!
• While visiting the Historic District, feel free to grab a to-go of your favorite adult beverage. It is legal to carry and enjoy, but only in the Historic District.

 Where to Stay

• Red Gate Campground & Resort was close to the city yet far enough out to have a country feel. With horses and goats on property and a lovely event house within walking distance, this was a nice respite from the busy city.
• Lake Jasper RV Village is further out, about 45 minutes. It sits on a small lake and is convenient to get to Savannah or Hilton Head as well as other places of interest near Hardeville, SC.
• Skidaway Island State Park is highly rated. We were not able to get in there as it was full, but looks like a convenient choice for Tybee Island and Savannah.
• Hilton Head Harbor RV Resort & Marina is right on the water, outside Hilton Head Island. Each spot is owned by an individual so there is a wide variety. The spots are close to one another, but with the landscaping, you get some privacy. This is a splurge campground for us but we enjoyed the convenience when we went to Hilton Head for the weekend.

For more tips and great photos to inspire your trip, watch our show on Savannah: